Sunday, January 9, 2011

Crochet Cable Hat



Hats are more aptly described as an art rather than a science. For this reason, I think of hat patterns as suggested guidelines rather than a formula to be followed without question. The finished object will be the result of several factors including the yarn selected for the project as well as the tension/gauge and style of the individual crocheter.


This hat contains 12 small crochet cables and is worked in the round. Beyond the basic structure, it can be completed with or without a folded brim, and can be adjusted to be taller or shorter, as desired. Particularly as you reach rounds 25 and 26, you may wish to adjust according to your vision of the finished object. The same applies to the ribbing rounds that finish the hat. Most importantly, enjoy the process and be creative.


Crochet Cable Hat Instructions


Hook: I (5.5mm)
Yarn: “4” / worsted weight


Adult medium; one size fits most. (If you wish to make a larger hat, increase the size of the hook.)

Gauge: First 3 rounds of pattern = approximately 2 inches. Adjust gauge as necessary by changing to a larger or smaller hook.


Hat is worked in the round using:
sc (single crochet)
dc (double crochet)
fpdc (front-post double crochet)
sl st (slip stitch, to join)

Note: Repeat instructions between * and * to construct cable pattern.



Round 1: Ch 2. Work 6 sc in 2nd chain from hook. Sl st to first sc st.

Round 2: Ch 2 (Does not count as a st). 2 dc in each st of previous round. Sl st to initial ch-2 of round. (12 sts)

Round 3: Ch 2. 1 fpdc around each of next 3 sts. *2 dc in next st. 1 dc in next st, and 1 fpdc around that same st. 1 fpdc around each of next 2 sts.* 2 dc in next st. 1 dc in final st of round. Sl st to initial ch-2 of round. (18 sts)

Round 4: Ch 2. Skip first fpdc. 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 fpdc sts. Return to skipped fpdc and work 1 fpdc around st. (This creates the first twist of the cables.) *In next st, work 2 dc (mark this stitch if desired--you will work this stitch again). Work 1 fpdc around each of next 2 sts. Return to marked st and work 1 fpdc around it.* Work 2 dc in final stitch of round. Sl st to initial ch-2 of round. (30 sts)

Round 5: Ch 2. *Work 1 fpdc around each of next 3 sts. Work 2 dc in each of next 2 sts.* Sl st to initial ch-2 of round. (42 sts)

Notes: You may have to move the third fpdc stitch out of the way in order to work the first two fpdc stitches of each cable. The increases in this round will make room for additional cables in future rounds. 

Round 6: Ch 2. *Skip next fpdc. Work 1 fpdc around each of next 2 sts. Return to skipped fpdc and work 1 fpdc around st. Work 1 dc in next st, and 1 fpdc around the same st. Work 1 fpdc around each of next 2 sts. Work 1 dc in next st. *Sl st to initial ch-2 of round. (48 sts)

Round 7: Ch 2. *Work 1 fpdc around each of next 3 sts. Work 2 dc sts in next st.* Sl st to initial ch-2 of round. (60 sts)

Round 8: Ch 2. *Skip next fpdc. 1 fpdc around each of next 2 sts. Return to skipped fpdc and work 1 fpdc around st. Work 1 dc in next st. Work 2 dc sts in next st.* Sl st to initial ch-2 of round. (72 sts)

Round 9: Ch 2. *Work 1 fpdc around each of next 3 sts. Work 2 dc sts in next st. Work 1 dc in next st. Work 2 dc sts in next st.* Sl st to initial ch-2 of round. (96 sts)

Round 10: Ch 2. *Skip next fpdc. 1 fpdc around each of next 2 sts. Return to skipped fpdc and work 1 fpdc around st. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 sts.* Sl st to initial ch-2 of round. (96 sts)

Round 11: Ch 2. *Work 1 fpdc around each of next 3 sts. Work 1 dc in each of next 5 sts.* Sl st to initial ch-2 of round. (96 sts)

Round 12: Repeat Round 10.


Round 13: Ch 2. *Work 1 fpdc around each of next 3 sts. Work 1 dc in next st. Dc 2 together over next 2 sts. Work 1 dc in each of next 2 sts.* Sl st to initial ch-2 of round. (84 sts)

Round 14: Ch 2. *Skip next fpdc. 1 fpdc around each of next 2 sts. Return to skipped fpdc and work 1 fpdc around st. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 sts.* Sl st to initial ch-2 of round. (84 sts)

Round 15: Ch 2. *Work 1 fpdc around each of next 3 sts. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 sts.* Sl st to initial ch-2 of round. (84 sts)

Round 16-19: Repeat Rounds 14 and 15. (Note: the even rounds have the “twisted” sts; the odd rounds have the “straight” sts.)

Round 20: Ch 2. *Skip next fpdc. 1 fpdc around each of next 2 sts. Return to skipped fpdc and work 1 fpdc around st. Work 1 dc in next st. Dc 2 tog over next 2 sts. Work 1 dc in next st. Skip next fpdc. 1 fpdc around each of next 2 sts. Return to skipped fpdc and work 1 fpdc around st. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 sts.* Sl st to initial ch-2 of round. (78 sts)

Round 21: Ch 2. *Work 1 fpdc around each of next 3 sts. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 sts. Work 1 fpdc around each of next 3 sts. Work 1 dc in each of next 4 sts.* Sl st to initial ch-2 of round. (78 sts)

Round 22: Ch 2. *Skip next fpdc. 1 fpdc around each of next 2 sts. Return to skipped fpdc and work 1 fpdc around st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 sts. Skip next fpdc. 1 fpdc around each of next 2 sts. Return to skipped fpdc and work 1 fpdc around st. Work 1 dc in next st. Dc 2 tog over next 2 sts. Work 1 dc in next st. * Sl st to initial ch-2 of round. (72 sts)

Round 23: Ch 2. *Work 1 fpdc around each of next 3 sts. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 sts.* Sl st to initial ch-2 of round. (72 sts)

Round 24: Ch 2. *Skip next fpdc. 1 fpdc around each of next 2 sts. Return to skipped fpdc and work 1 fpdc around st. Work 1 dc in each of next 3 sts.* Sl st to initial ch-2 of round. (72 sts)

Rounds 25 and 26: Repeat Rounds 23 and 24. (Use your judgment here. Different yarns work up in their own way, coupled with each individual crocheters’ tension or gauge. You may wish to skip to Round 27 instead of repeating.)

Round 27: Ch 2. *Work 1 fpdc around each of next 3 sts. Work 1 bpdc, 1 fpdc and 1 bpdc around next 3 sts.* Sl st to initial ch-2 of round. (72 sts)

Round 28: *Work 1 fpdc around st of previous round. Work 1 bpdc around next st. Work 1 fpdc around next st. Work 1 bpdc, 1 fpdc and 1 bpdc around next 3 sts.* (Establishes ribbed pattern.) Sl st to initial ch-2 of round. (72 sts)

Round 29: Work 1 fpdc around each fpdc of previous round, 1 bpdc around bpdc of previous round. (Continue ribbed pattern.)

Continue with ribbed pattern to desired length, whether just a couple rounds or quite a few if a long folded brim is desired. Be creative here; many options exist for finishing. When hat is complete, bind off and weave in ends.

Monday, December 27, 2010

Möbius Cowl

Möbius, Cowl with a twist


Möbius Cowl in Eco Alpaca

A simple, textured cowl worked in the round, with a single twist.

Currently being edited. MORE PHOTOS COMING SOON. 

Hook: L

The pattern uses:
fsc (foundation single crochet)
dc (double crochet)
sc (single crochet)
sl st (slip stitch)

Notes:
  • Gauge is not important, though the first round must fit over the wearer’s head. 
  • This pattern is easily adaptable from a fitted cowl to a much longer infinity scarf, or something in between. For a looser garment, use a larger hook or increase the number of stitches.
  • It is worked as a möbius, with each round building outward from the center. The end of each round is connected to the beginning before turning to work the following round. You may wish to place a removable stitch marker at the beginning of each round to easily find it.
  • Foundation single crochet (fsc) is an elegant and efficient alternative to starting with a chain. You can learn how to do it here: http://www.crochetspot.com/how-to-crochet-foundation-single-crochet-fsc/ or here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZrabIcA8C8


Begin with 60 fsc.

Start of Round 1


Round 1: Connect to the beginning by twisting the foundation once and placing a sc into the first fsc. (You may want to mark this stitch with a removable stitch marker.) Place one sc in each fsc until you have worked the entire side. Continue with sc on the opposite of the foundation until you have completed one full round. Connect to the first sc with a sl st. Turn.


Near the end of Round 2

Round 2: Ch-2 (count this as 1 dc. You may want to mark this stitch). Skip the first sc and work 1 sc in next st. 1 dc in next st. Continue in this pattern (*dc, sc*) along the entire round. When you reach the end, sl st to first ch-2 of the round. Turn.

Stitch Detail


Continue working rounds in pattern (*dc, sc*) to desired height, typically at least six inches. Bind off and weave in ends. Enjoy!


Some possible variations on this design:

Mohair adaptation with longer foundation for infinity scarf



MORE PHOTOS COMING SOON

Monday, November 22, 2010

HS Hat




Yarn: #4 aran yarn; Yarn Bee Bamboospun (bamboo/polyamide blend)

Hook: L

Gauge: First 3 rounds = 2.5 inches
(Gauge is not essential to this pattern; the fabric is quite stretchy and the pattern can be adjusted to desired length.)

This pattern uses:
hdc (half double crochet)
bpdc (back-post double crochet)
fpdc (front-post double crochet)

To begin: Ch 2. Work 6 sc in 2nd chain from hook.

Note: Use stitch marker to keep track of first stitch in each round, until reaching the ribbed rounds.

Round 2: 2 hdc in each st of previous round (12 sts)

Round 3: 1 hdc in first st, 2 hdc in next st, repeat 5 more times (18 sts)

Round 4: 1 hdc in first 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st, repeat 5 more times (24 sts)

Round 5: 1 hdc in first 3 sts, 2 hdc in next st, repeat 5 more times (30 sts)

Round 6: 1 hdc in first 4 sts, 2 hdc in next st, repeat 5 more times (36 sts)

Round 7: 1 hdc in first 5 sts, 2 hdc in next st, repeat 5 more times (42 sts)

Round 8: 1 hdc in first 6 sts, 2 hdc in next st, repeat 5 more times (48 sts)

Round 9: 1 hdc in first 7 sts, 2 hdc in next st, repeat 5 more times (54 sts)

Round 10: 1 hdc in first 8 sts, 2 hdc in next st, repeat 5 more times (60 sts)

Round 11-16: 1 hdc in each st of previous round (60 sts)

Round 17: *1 hdc in first 8 sts, hdc2tog*, repeat (54 sts)

Round 18-23: 1 hdc in each st of previous round (54 sts)

Round 24: Ch 1, bpdc in first st of previous round, *fpdc in next st, bpdc in next st*, repeat to end of round, sl st to first st of round.

Round 25: Ch 2, continue rib pattern of previous round.

Round 26: Repeat round 25.

Fold up the ribbed rounds. If desired, the hat can be made taller/longer by continuing in pattern.
Bind off and weave in beginning and end of yarn.

Monday, August 2, 2010

Crochet Cables



Cables have been at the center of my crochet interest lately.

Monday, May 3, 2010

Summer Scarves


Summer Scarves are great. I've lost count of the number of scarves I've crocheted during this spring season. This scarf uses Sirdar's "Baby Bamboo" DK. This was a fun yarn to work with, has a wonderfully soft feel, and displays stitch texture brilliantly.





The scarf pictured below uses Aslan Trends "Class" sport-weight--a rayon/cotton blend.



I recently started working with "Panda Soy" from Crystal Palace Yarns, using wattle stitch. This yarn is delicious, a trait this is only enhanced by the name of this color: fudge brownie. Initially I wasn't sure this stitch would work for a scarf, but this yarn seems to be working up nicely with the wattle stitch. I will likely finish the side edges with either single stitch or slip stitch after it reaches a suitable length.

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Recent Work



In an effort to stay sane while also studying in a phd program and raising a child with high-functioning autism, I have frequently been crocheting late into the night. It is certainly a therapeutic practice, though I need to curb the late night tendencies. This scarf, using Crystal Palace "Party" in indigo forest, was finished last week.

I recently learned of the efforts of Hat Box Foundation and have been working on several hats I plan to donate. This particular organization is in California, and I hope to find a similar project here in North Carolina.




The baby spiral hat in Sublime Cotton Kapok, also finished last week.

Thursday, April 1, 2010

Sublime Yarn



This is the beginning of another baby spiral hat, this time using Sublime's baby cotton kapok dk, in shade 0184. We'll consider it a proofreading of the pattern posted earlier in the week. In fact, I've caught a couple of typos in the pattern so far, and have been editing that post to correct them. Besides, hats are fun and simple--and after some point in the evening attempting anything academic is a waste of time, at least in my case.